I’m sitting alone in a coffee shop in Swakopmund called
Bojos. In the air there is the smell of sugary baked goods and fancy coffee,
the kind that come on a saucer and have frothy designs steamed into the milky
foam top. Through the speakers comes the melodic and gag-tastic smooth jazz
version of Michael Jackson’s greatest hits. Currently, a duo of saxophone and
trumpet is whining out The Girl Is Mine. It reminds me of something that would
play in the gift shop of a very sophisticated old folks home. I once again look
down at my Bill Bryson novel and begin to read about his travels through Europe.
I like Bill Bryson. I like reading about other people’s
asinine escapades through foreign countries. It makes me feel more normal. As I
read about his inability to tell if a big, metal vessel on his restaurant table
is indeed an ashtray or some kind of cyborg piece of abstract art, I smile at
how many times this sort of situation has happened to me.
When you are travelling alone, there is no one to share a
confused laugh with. No one to ask “Well, gee, what the shit is this for?” So,
you end up doing some weird, compromising thing to avoid having to look like a
complete tourist, which generally just makes you look more like a fool than
usual.
I giggle.
The German woman at the table next to me looks over at me
like I just asked her how to get to Sesame Street, but soon gets bored with me
and starts proclaiming something about her food in guttural tones.
The waitress comes over and greets me in Afrikaans. I respond
in kind and ask for a “koppie koffie,” or a cup of coffee, feeling very pleased
with myself. She returns with my coffee and says something in rapid Afrikaans that
I presume means “Is there anything else I can get you?” Uncertainly, I mumble,
“nee, dankie,” or no thank you. She stares at me in a way that means that answer makes no sense in this
situtation, and waits patiently for me to explain why I am an idiot. I fumble
around in my brain for a smooth move. Sorry
I think I’ve just had a brain aneurism and suddenly forget how to speak my
native South African tongue. No. “Uhh…” I pause “Sorry, I don’t actually
speak Afrikaans. I have no idea what you just said, but I figured I’d continue
living this lie because I’m bored.”
Actually, I didn’t say the second part.
But I do this sometimes. I don’t really know why. I suppose
I’m either apathetic toward informing people correctly about my nationality or
feel that it would be embarrassing on one of our parts to correct them. In
fact, there is a woman in Otjiwarongo who still thinks I am Megan from the UK.
Instead I finished the conversation in English and turned to
read the philosophical quotes written on the back of my sugar packets. (I like
this concept. You can find anything from Aristotle to Chinese proverbs. Like, I
think I will have a Nietzsche flavored cup of coffee today.) I choose one by
Eleanor Roosevelt and emptied it into my coffee.
“You must do the thing you think you cannot do.”
An apt quote for my life right now, with the frustrations of
my kitchen project and my general unenthusiasm with the end of term. (Microsoft
Word is telling me “unenthusiasm” is not a word, but I am choosing to disregard
it.)
So thank you, Eleanor. I will. But right now I will drink my
coffee and listen to Michael Jazzy Pants Jackson and amuse myself by thinking
about the trivial confusions and awkwardness of this past year. As you may have
witnessed in the entirety of this blog, there are many.
And, you know, if it suits my fancy, I’ll probably pretend
to speak Mandarin or Swahili or something to pass the time.
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